In a beauty landscape where social media often tells us that more products mean better makeup, Khaya Mhleli believes the opposite. Layers of foundation, concealer and powder may dominate our feeds, but according to the acclaimed Johannesburg-based editorial and creative makeup artist, great beauty begins with restraint, intention and the confidence to let skin look like skin.
Whether it’s a bold wash of blush, a glossy nude lip or a dramatic editorial eye, every brushstroke should be worn for one reason only: because it brings you joy.
That philosophy has become the foundation of Mhleli’s career. Recognised as one of South Africa’s most exciting creative voices, the Johannesburg-based, non-binary makeup artist has transformed faces into living works of art through collaborations with luxury fashion house Gucci, Nataal Media and celebrated creatives including Trevor Stuurman and Zoe Modiga. Beyond the pages of editorials and major beauty campaigns, Mhleli also shares their industry expertise as a co-host on The Nine to Five Show, where beauty, culture and creativity intersect with conversations shaping contemporary South Africa.
Most recently, Mhleli joined the NYX Professional Makeup Masterclass alongside internationally acclaimed artist Painted by Esther, an experience that served as another reminder that exceptional artistry is never about excess. It is about understanding the face in front of you, trusting your technique and creating makeup that enhances rather than disguises. Here, Mhleli shares the beauty lessons they swear by, the products they would keep in every makeup bag and why confidence will always be the most important finishing touch.
You were recently one of the makeup artists at the NYX Professional Makeup Masterclass with Painted by Esther. What was that experience like, and what was your biggest takeaway from working at such a high-profile beauty event?
It was honestly such a full circle moment. I’ve admired Esther’s work for so long, so getting to meet her and be part of a masterclass she was leading was really special.
She’s one of those artists whose work I’ve followed for years, so being able to watch her work in person and learn from her was something I’ll never forget. One thing that really stood out to me was how intentional she is. Every product she used had a purpose and every step was carefully thought through. It reminded me that good makeup isn’t about using loads of products or chasing every trend. It’s about understanding the face in front of you and trusting your technique.
I left feeling really inspired and excited to keep learning because, no matter how long you’ve been doing makeup, there’s always something new to take away from another artist.
As a professional makeup artist, you’ve worked with different faces, skin tones and beauty preferences. What’s the first thing you assess before deciding how to approach someone’s makeup?
The first thing I look at isn’t actually their face. It’s them.
I always ask how they normally wear makeup and, more importantly, how they want to feel. Some people want full glam, while others simply want to look like themselves on a really good day. From there, I’ll look at their skin type, undertone, facial features and what the makeup is for.
Makeup should always work with someone’s features, not against them. When you understand the person before you pick up a brush, the finished look feels far more authentic.
Flawless makeup starts long before foundation. What are your non-negotiable skincare or skin prep steps for creating a smooth, long-lasting base?
Skin prep is everything.
I always make sure the skin is clean, then I’ll focus on hydration based on their skin type. A well moisturised face will always help foundation sit better than piling on more product. If I use a primer, it’s because I’m trying to solve a specific concern, not because I think everyone needs one.
One thing I always do before I call a look finished is literally take a step back and look at my work. When you’re so close to someone’s face, it’s easy to get caught up in the little details. Stepping back lets you see the whole picture and, most of the time, the makeup doesn’t need more product. It just needs a final blend or a small tweak.
There’s so much beauty advice on social media that it can be difficult to know what’s actually worth following. What’s one makeup myth you’d like to debunk, and what should people be doing instead?
I’d love to retire the idea that more product equals better makeup.
Social media has convinced us that you need layers and layers of foundation, concealer and powder, but that doesn’t always translate well in real life. I always say start with less. It’s much easier to build coverage than it is to take it away, and your skin should still look like skin.
That said, I’m also very much team “put the makeup on”. If you want the bold blush, the glitter eyeshadow or the dramatic lip, wear it. Makeup should be fun. The difference is doing it intentionally, not because you feel like you have to cover yourself up. Wear as much makeup as you want. Just make sure you’re wearing it because it brings you joy.
Winter can make makeup more challenging, from dry skin to patchy foundation. What are your go-to techniques for keeping makeup looking fresh and comfortable throughout the day?
Hydration is honestly the biggest game changer.
I spend more time prepping the skin in winter than I do applying foundation. I also prefer lighter, more hydrating base products instead of trying to force a matte look onto dry skin. I’ll powder only where it’s actually needed, then finish with a setting spray to bring everything together.
I’d much rather someone look healthy and glowy than overly matte. For me, makeup should enhance the skin, not hide it.
Many people buy more makeup than they actually need. If you were building a versatile makeup kit for someone from scratch, which five products would you consider essential, and why?
I’d keep it really simple.
A skin-like foundation or skin tint that actually matches your skin is essential because it creates a natural-looking base. I’d also choose a creamy concealer for brightening and covering the areas that need it, followed by a cream blush, which instantly brings life back into the face and can double as a lip colour.
I’d add a brow gel because brows frame your whole face, and a good mascara to open up the eyes. You really don’t need a massive collection to create beautiful makeup. With those five products, you can do so much.
Every makeup artist develops techniques that become part of their signature. What would you say defines your artistry, and what do you hope clients feel when they see the finished result?
I’d say my style is all about balance.
I love creative makeup, but I also love making sure the person wearing it is still the focus. Whether I’m doing something soft and natural or something more editorial, I never want the makeup to overpower someone.
At the end of the day, I want people to look in the mirror and still see themselves. If they leave my chair feeling more confident than when they sat down, then I’ve done my job.
Quick Fire
One makeup product you couldn’t work without?
Blush. It adds so much character to a look. I never leave home without it.
Your favourite lip combination at the moment?
A rich brown lip liner, a pinky nude lipstick and lots of gloss.
One makeup trend you’ll never get tired of?
Blush. It’s always the first thing to disappear from your face, so I’ll never judge anyone for wearing a little extra.
One beauty trend you think deserves more attention?
More colour and a bit of drama. We’ve had fun with makeup before. Bring back colourful lashes and playful looks.
Complete the sentence: Great makeup is all about…
“…making you feel more like yourself.”
