From Zané Samuels of ZOUR’s playful colour story to Ntwana’s textured neutrals and Michael Peter Reid’s emotionally charged menswear, five emerging designers brought distinct creative perspectives to the runway.
South African fashion’s next generation made a compelling case for its place on the runway at last night’s SA Fashion Week New Talent Search, powered by J.C. Le Roux. Bringing together five emerging designers, the showcase celebrated the individuality of contemporary design through expressive colour, statement prints, considered textures and personal storytelling.
Zané Samuels of ZOUR, Martin John Steenkamp of Martin John Bespoke, Blackfaces Apparel, Ntwana and Michael Peter Reid each presented a distinct aesthetic, demonstrating the breadth of ideas shaping the future of South African fashion.
Zané Samuels of ZOUR: A playful proposition
Zané Samuels brought a vibrant burst of red, orange and pink to the runway through ZOUR, embracing a playful, romantic aesthetic with a distinctly coquette sensibility. The colour palette lent the collection a youthful energy, celebrating expressive dressing and fashion as an extension of personality.
The result was a spirited contrast to the more restrained palettes elsewhere in the showcase, offering a fresh take on femininity through colour and visual playfulness.
Martin John Steenkamp of Martin John Bespoke: Earthy, with an edge
Martin John Steenkamp took a moodier approach with Martin John Bespoke, grounding his collection in earthy brown tones and an edgy aesthetic. The palette brought depth to the presentation, allowing the details and construction to take focus.
With an emphasis on craftsmanship and individuality, Steenkamp’s work explores the relationship between established design techniques and contemporary expression. His collection offered a grounded counterpoint to the evening’s more colour-forward presentations.
Blackfaces Apparel: The art of the print
Blackfaces Apparel brought pattern to the forefront, offering a print-led perspective that added another dimension to the showcase. The collection’s emphasis on prints created a visual contrast with the more minimal palettes on the runway, reinforcing the role of pattern in shaping a distinctive design identity.
Its presence underscored the diversity of approaches within emerging South African fashion, where designers continue to explore how clothing can communicate personality and a unique point of view.
Ntwana: A study in texture and tone
Founded by Mikhail Brown and Mmiso Luphondo, Johannesburg-based label Ntwana took a restrained approach, working with a palette of grey and white that felt both understated and distinctive. A tie-dye-like treatment introduced movement and texture, giving the collection depth without relying on bold colour.
The label explores contemporary African luxury through the lens of youth culture, balancing sophistication with a more experimental sensibility. Its collection was a reminder that visual impact need not always come from colour. Sometimes, it is the interplay of texture, tone and detail that makes a lasting impression.
Michael Peter Reid: Fashion as an emotional language
Taking home the win was Johannesburg-based designer Michael Peter Reid, whose collection, Commitment Issues, explored the complexities of love, heartbreak and self-discovery. Reid approaches fashion as a way of translating personal experiences into wearable expression, using the runway to tell stories that extend beyond aesthetics.
“I still can’t quite believe it. I feel honoured. I’ve been a finalist in these competitions several times, and this is the first time I’ve won. I’ve imagined what this moment might feel like, but the reality is completely different from what I expected. It feels like a culmination of all the work I’ve put in and all the sacrifices I’ve made. Being part of this competition has been a truly beautiful experience. Even if I hadn’t won, I would have been happy to showcase my work,” Reid says.
Reflecting on the collection’s inspiration, he explains: “The collection is called Commitment Issues. It explores yearning, love and heartbreak, but ultimately, it is about finding yourself and discovering peace amid the tumultuous waters of a relationship.”
Reid’s win brought a personal dimension to an evening defined by creative diversity. His collection explored the emotional possibilities of fashion, showing how individual experiences can inform a designer’s visual language.
A platform for emerging talent
The SAFW New Talent Search provides a platform for emerging designers to develop their creative identities while considering responsible design practices and commercial potential. This year’s judging panel included Jackie May, founder of Twyg, alongside Sumendra Chetty, Chris Makhanya and renowned designer Thula Sindi, bringing perspectives from across fashion media, sustainability, retail and designer development.
Last night’s showcase made one thing clear: there is no single aesthetic defining the future of South African fashion. From Zané Samuels’ romantic colour story and Martin John Steenkamp’s earthy edge to Blackfaces Apparel’s prints, Ntwana’s textural minimalism and Michael Peter Reid’s emotionally driven designs, each collection offered a different interpretation of contemporary style.
While Reid claimed the top honour, the strength of the showcase lay in the individuality of all five designers. Together, they offered a compelling reminder of the creative possibilities emerging when new voices are given room to experiment, challenge expectations and define fashion on their own terms.
