With 27 years of research behind it, Lancôme’s Génifique Ultimate marks a new chapter in skin repair. We step inside The Open Lab to discover the science, technology and innovation behind the brand’s latest skincare breakthrough.
What happens when luxury beauty meets cutting-edge science? At L’Oréal South Africa’s Centre of Excellence for African Beauty Science in Midrand, Lancôme recently opened the doors to its world of innovation with The Open Lab by Lancôme, an intimate experience designed to take media and creators beyond the traditional beauty launch and into the science behind its latest skincare breakthrough, Génifique Ultimate.
Dressed in white and hues of blue, guests were immersed in the research, technology and expertise behind Lancôme’s latest chapter in repair science. From a Génifique Ultimate masterclass with Lancôme’s education and research experts to hands-on experiences with Skin Screen and other Beauty Tech innovations, the experience offered a closer look at the thinking behind one of the brand’s most iconic skincare franchises.
At the centre of it all was Génifique Ultimate, Lancôme’s next-generation repair serum, which builds on decades of research into skin repair. The formula is powered by Beta-Glucan-CM, alongside Hyaluronic Acid and Pure Licorice Extract, and is designed to support the skin’s barrier, soothe visible signs of damage and improve overall skin quality.
But for Nazneen Khan, Senior Product Manager for Lancôme and L’Oréal Lux, the purpose of the experience extended far beyond introducing another product. It was about answering a question that increasingly informed beauty consumers are asking: why does this product work, and why should it have a place in my routine?
We caught up with Nazneen to unpack the thinking behind The Open Lab, the evolution of Génifique Ultimate, sustainable beauty, the changing South African skincare consumer and her advice for anyone looking to build a skincare routine from the ground up.
What inspired Lancôme to create such an intimate, educational experience for media and creators, rather than simply hosting a traditional product launch?
When we reformulated Génifique, one of the challenges we identified was that consumers did not always understand the difference between Advanced Génifique and the new Génifique Ultimate. There was understandably some hesitation around making the switch, particularly among loyal Génifique consumers who had loved the original formula for years.
We therefore wanted to take a much more educational approach. It is very easy to place a product in a PR package and encourage someone to try it, but skincare is inherently educational. Consumers want to understand what a product does, why they should use it, where it fits into their routine and what makes it different from what they have used before.
That is what inspired us to create an experience around Génifique Ultimate rather than simply launch it. We wanted to break down the formula, explain the science behind it and demonstrate why this evolution matters. We also wanted to give our media and creators an insight into Lancôme’s approach to skincare, the research behind our innovations and the technology that supports our products.
There is a strong emphasis on science and sustainability within the experience. How important is responsible innovation to Lancôme?
Sustainability is a major priority across L’Oréal, through its L’Oréal for the Future commitments, and it is something we are continually working towards as a business.
You can see that commitment in the design of Génifique Ultimate, particularly through its refillable format. The idea is to reduce unnecessary waste while maintaining the elevated experience associated with a luxury beauty product. The refill is also offered at a lower price than purchasing the complete product again, which encourages consumers to continue using the refill system.
This approach extends beyond skincare. Our fragrances are also available in refillable formats, so there is a broader movement across the brand towards creating beauty in a more responsible and sustainable way.
The South African beauty consumer is becoming increasingly informed about ingredients, formulations and efficacy. How is Lancôme responding to that shift?
Consumers today are much more interested in understanding why a product works and whether it will genuinely benefit them. They are no longer simply buying into a brand name. They are asking questions, researching ingredients and becoming much more informed about their purchases.
We do not want to rely solely on the heritage or reputation of Lancôme. We want to continue earning that trust by giving consumers the information and experiences they need to make informed decisions.
That is also why experiences such as The Open Lab are so important. We are creating opportunities for consumers to engage directly with the science, technology and expertise behind our products.
You mentioned that Lancôme is taking this concept even further with the Beauty Tech House. What can consumers expect from that experience?
The Beauty Tech House is an exciting next step because it takes the intimate concept we created for media and creators and expands it to a much larger audience.
It is an immersive experience that brings together beauty, science and technology, allowing consumers to experience the world of Lancôme for themselves. We want to continue driving sampling, recruitment and education while giving consumers an opportunity to understand what is happening inside our products and to feel genuinely connected to the brand.
For us, it is about building a community around Lancôme and creating experiences that allow people to interact with the brand rather than simply observe it.
Génifique Ultimate is positioned around skin repair. Who is the ideal consumer for the serum?
That is what makes Génifique Ultimate particularly interesting. There is often an assumption in skincare that certain products are designed for certain people or particular concerns. While some ingredients are associated with specific needs, Génifique Ultimate is fundamentally about supporting the skin barrier and its ability to recover.
We are all exposed to external stressors, whether that is pollution, environmental conditions or everyday lifestyle factors. Maintaining a healthy, hydrated skin barrier is therefore something that can benefit everyone.
That is why we describe Génifique Ultimate as a kind of “step zero” in a skincare routine. Once you have cleansed your skin, you can use Génifique Ultimate before moving on to your other targeted skincare products. It is about establishing a strong foundation for the rest of your routine.
For someone who is just beginning to take skincare seriously, what three Lancôme products would you recommend starting with?
I would always start with the basics. First, you need a good cleanser because keeping the skin clean is fundamental. Lancôme has several cleansing options, including Mousse Éclat, which is a great starting point.
Then, of course, I would recommend Génifique Ultimate because hydration and supporting the skin barrier are so important. It provides that foundation before you introduce other targeted products.
Finally, you need a good moisturiser. Personally, I love Rénergie. It is our anti-ageing franchise, but when we say “anti-ageing”, people sometimes assume it is exclusively for older consumers. You can actually be proactive about caring for your skin.
Rénergie is a great way to start thinking about long-term skin health and making sure you are giving your skin the ingredients it needs to remain hydrated, fresh and healthy-looking.
What do you think is most exciting about where Lancôme is heading next?
I think what is most exciting is the continued integration of science, technology and beauty. We are constantly looking at how we can make our expertise more accessible and meaningful to consumers.
The Beauty Tech House is a great example of that. It takes the intimate concept of bringing people into the world of Lancôme skincare and expands it, giving even more people an opportunity to connect with the brand and experience our innovations first-hand.
I’m really excited for people to experience it for themselves. It is a completely different way of engaging with skincare, and I think consumers will find it incredibly exciting.
As Lancôme continues to explore the intersection of beauty, science and technology, what can consumers look forward to experiencing next?
The next exciting chapter is the Lancôme Beauty Tech House, which takes the immersive spirit of The Open Lab and opens it up to consumers on a much larger scale. It is an opportunity to step into the world of Lancôme and experience first-hand how beauty, cutting-edge science and technology come together to shape the future of skincare.
Taking place on Thursday, 10 September at Checkers Court in Sandton City, the Beauty Tech House will give guests the opportunity to engage with Lancôme’s latest innovations in a way that goes beyond simply discovering a product. It is about experiencing the science and technology behind the brand, understanding the innovations that are shaping modern skincare and connecting with Lancôme in a much more immersive way.
